Week Two: Life is better without leeches

Week two

I haven't been able to update as often as I would like. I am going to have to describe this past week in very little time. I'll give it a shot. Unfortunately, I will have to leave out a lot of amazing meals.

Last Wednesday, we rented a car in Chiang Mai, which we didn't like at all, and drove on the wrong side of the road (Leeor did an amazing job of adjusting) to Doi Inthanon National Park. While it was a beautiful park, we couldn't really find any trails to hike. We simply drove right up to a stunning waterfall, which was a bit disappointing. We left the park and took a drive through the village that sat at the bottom of the mountain. It was quaint and pretty and the road that took us through the village led us to a spectacular valley with rice fields and perfect wooden shacks. A group of boys were swimming in the irrigation canal, and they let me take pictures of them jumping into the water. The sun was setting behind the misty mountains and, trying to avoid driving in the dark, we began the two hour drive back to Chiang Mai. It wasn't what we expected, but it was still a nice day. We took a nice room at a guest house that looked like a Thai style Swiss chalet that stood right on the river. There was even a koo-koo clock on the wall. It was nice to have a comfortable room. The next morning we had a cup of coffee and French toast in the beautiful courtyard that looked onto the river. It was so peaceful. They make a very good American breakfast here. I have to admit that even for me, minced pork on rice is not such an appealing breakfast food.

The next day, we took a bus North to Chiang Rai. We instantly fell in love with the charming little city. It isn't nearly as touristy as Chiang Mai. It has much more of a laid back and friendly vibe. Not everyone is trying to sell you a packaged tour. We stayed at an incredibly sweet guest house with another beautiful courtyard area. The first evening, we walked around the night market, where the whole town congregates. They even watch their favorite soap opera outside, seated together in front of a small tv. Maybe I am idealizing a little, but life here seems so much simpler and generally more enjoyable. People are always laughing and smiling, even though they aren't driving fancy cars and wearing designer clothes. They seem to always be socializing, even while at their jobs. They make life at home seem so full of unnecessary stress. We had a banana roti, an amazing Thai massage, and went to bed. We were happy to be out of Chiang Mai and in a place that has so much soul.

On Friday, we rented bicycles and had one of the best day of our lives (yes, of both of our lives). We wanted to avoid having to do a tour, and it was such a good decision. We ended up doing a 36 km loop up into the mountains, through stunning rice-field valleys and agricultural villages. It was hot, so we stopped often to drink and eat popsicles. We had our lunch by the side of the road. We had rice noodles in an amazing broth with pork balls, these mysterious, spongy things that grow on you, and fresh greens. A little bit of chili powder and it was amazing. We brought lemon-lime gatorade with us, which tasted incredible over ice. We rode on and, thank god, a cloud came and covered the brutal sun right when we began the uphill portion of our voyage. We welcomed the light rain. It smelled sweet and grassy, like in Miami. We didn't quite know where we were headed (our map was not the most accurate or easy to understand) and I think we made a wrong turn, and we were glad we did. It was a longer way and at a certain point the pavement ended, but it was breathtaking. We road past villages built entirely out of wood and set in the hills. All the children waved "Herraaaa!" (hello) and smiled at us. We finally got to a waterfall and took a dip in the cold water. A group of teenagers were barbecuing by the waterfall and let us taste some of their delicious pork chop. At five-thirty, we rode back, this time enjoying the fresh cool breeze as we joyously soared down the hills we struggled to climb. At one point, a pack of dogs chased us as we flew by a group of houses. It sounds charming, but really I was petrified. I thought they wanted to kill me as they barked and ran along side me. But my screams quickly turned to hysterical laughter and we stopped by the road to recover. The ride back was easy, the glorious sunset following close behind us. It was truly a memorable day. We had a deep-fried snapper with garlic sauce at the Chinese (msg mmmmm) diner on the corner of our street for dinner. Definitely one of the best things the world has to offer. We devoured the left overs the next day on the bus ride to Chang Kong (can you imagine eating left over fried fish with garlic on a bus in the US?) , where we would cross the border to Laos.

We got into Laos on Saturday evening after a three hour no AC bus ride (the views were nice at least!), a tuk-tuk ride, a short boat ride, and a stressful border experience. We already missed Thailand! After talking to some travelers, we decided to try the three day Gibbon Experience -- a zip-lining treking adventure in the middle of the jungles of Laos (!). I was skeptical, especially because the release form indicated that we would have encounters with several insects that I am not particularly fond of, but I agreed because Leeor wanted to do it and the objective of the company is to protect the rain forest and its wildlife. Basically, no gibbons would be chained to a wooden plank. Our group, made up of a British couple, a couple from Holland, and another from Australia, set off Sunday morning. The ride there was pleasant and our group was friendly. After a three hour ride, we got to the village and hiked into the jungle hills for two hours. We swam together in the waterfall to cool off. We then zip-lined (you fly through the air attached by a harness to a metal wire) to our tree house set high up in the trees. The next two days, we hiked, zipped, and ate pretty delicious food (mainly rice and differently flavored vegetables). The hikes were difficult for me, as they were uphill and slippery from the rain, but it felt good to work hard. The other people didn't seem to struggle as much as I did, but then again they are giant goyim. Of course, we didn't see any gibbons, but what we did see were a whole lot of leeches! Leeches everywhere. A few of us were eaten (not me thank god! one tried to suck on my foot in the shower, but I got him off with some wacks from my shoe and cursing before he could taste my blood). We constantly had to watch for them. They tried to crawl up our shoes and socks, and were pretty good at it. The second night, we were surrounded by bees and wasps. Not the post pleasant accommodations. But still no bites. There was a fierce lightening storm that night, which was an experience. In the end, I had sore muscles, good photos, and a few Dutch words to take home with me. While it was nice to spend time with other travelers and hear their (frightening) stories of Nepal and elsewhere, I am glad to be on my own again, especially now that I'm not covered in mud and leeches. I know I wanted to be immersed in nature, but there is only so much I can take. Two days would have been sufficient. It wasn't what I am used to, and there were times when I wasn't enjoying myself, but I am glad we did it.

Last evening, there was a vicious storm in the border town where I am staying. We watched it while drinking a can of Beer Lao at a place by the road.Midstorm, the power went out. Business as usual! Everyone took out candles and went on with their lives. A guy was barbecuing duck so we sat down and chewed tasty duck meat off of its bones in a candle-lit hole-in-the-wall with some male locals, more beer Lao, and the best chili sauce I ever had. It was infused with cilantro and had fish sauce in it. The power eventually came back, and we had a wonderful air-conditioned sleep. Today we are doing laundry and getting ready for an 11 hour night bus ride to Luang Prabang. I hope I can sleep through it.